Thursday--February 17--Valparaiso

a view from the top

Thursday--February 17--Valparaiso

My full last day in Valparaiso and I wanted to see the third and final Pablo Neruda house.  

At breakfast Jenny invited me to come with her and Sandra for “happy hour” and then to dinner.  That was nice and I accepted her invitation.  

I began my day by walking to the cemetery that I’d heard was an interesting place to see.  When I arrived at the cemetery the gates were locked.  O.k. so I know that Jewish cemeteries are closed on Saturdays but it was Thursday.  There was a man standing on the street and he said something to me in Spanish that I didn’t understand.  I’m sure he was trying to explain to me why it was closed.  I didn’t know if maybe there was another entrance but I decided to try to find the collectivo to Neruda’s house.

I saw a bus stop on the corner and asked the women who got off if that was the collectivo to San Sebastiana.  No she said I needed to walk down the street.  I continued down the hill and after walking for 10 minutes and not seeing anything I saw a woman and asked her where the collectivo was.  She said I needed to walk further down the hill to the plaza and there would be signs (all of this was in Spanish) telling me which one was going to San Sebastiana (Neruda’s house).

I finally made it to the plaza.  I thought the collectivo was a bus but much to my surprise it was a taxi.  While I was waiting I met a woman who is living in Buenos Aires but originally from Denmark.  She had come to Valparaiso just to visit the Neruda house, leaving her two children and ex-husband in Vina del Mar, for the day.  She is a photographer and travel writer.  We rode the collectivo together up to the house.

This was the longest wait I’d had at any museum.  This tour was by audio guide and they only had so many machines.  Therefore, they only allowed those number of people into the house at a time.

The best part of the house really was the views.  Neruda knew how to pick his properties.  No photos inside again but they did allow you to take photos of the views.  

View from Neruda's House

Now having seen all three houses I will say that the one in Isla Negra is my favorite.  If you are in Valparaiso it is worth visiting.  

another view from Neruda's house

From the house I saw a sign on a building across the yard that said “Cafe Mirra”.  I asked one of the guard if that was a restaurant and how to get there.  She told me if I turned left on the street it was just one block down.

I left the Neruda house and walked down the street to the restaurant which was not only a restaurant but also a gallery.    There are many of these combinations in Valparaiso due to the high number of artists living here.  The restaurant is on the back patio with a view of the Neruda house that’s why they painted the name of their restaurant on the building.  Good marketing.

me in front of Mirra Restaurant Gallery

I was only going to have a snack because it was nearly 3:00 p.m. but then the guy sitting at the next table told me he’d had the special “humita” and it was very good.  I didn’t know this guy but decided to believe him and ordered it.  Yes, it was delicious.  A humita is the Chliean corn tamale.  I was glad I had to walk after this meal.  

The same guy who suggested the humita also told me about the bus that goes from El Chalten to Bariloche and that it is important to book the bus ahead of time because it doesn’t go every day.  He gave me the name of the bus company and also of a hostel in El Chalten that he said was very clean and nice.  Finally I’m getting some information on the bus travel.  I don’t know why but I’ve been having difficulty getting the information I need for the buses in Patagonia on line.  Anyway, it’s a two day journey from El Chalten to Bariloche.   The only other option is to go back to El Calafate fly to Buenos Aires and then Bariloche and I didn’t want to to that. 

While I was eating I also talked with another couple who were originally from Argentina but had been living in the U.S. for 37 years.  He was a doctor in Chicago and had just retired.  They had taken a “retirement” cruise from Buenos Aires around Cape Horn and were ending the cruise in Valparaiso.  I’ve met many people on cruises.  Valparaiso is a place where cruises either start or stop and now is the season.  

One of the things that makes traveling so interesting is talking with other travelers.  Valparaiso is so full of tourists that it’s easy.  

  

I stopped in the gallery after eating and talked with Raul who is one of the owners.  He told me he had lived in Tucson for some time.  Many Chileans I have talked to like to tell me where they have lived and where their relatives live in the United States.  I have found the Chileans have a good feeling toward the United States.

view along my walk

another incredible view

I walked back to the hotel along the crest of the hill which took me about an hour.  The street has designated “photo” stops on the map.  So of course I stopped along the way.  The views were incredible and I was so lucky to have a glorious day.  

Walking on one of the small streets in Cerro Allegre I found this on the gate of someone's door.  I guess I am meant to live here.  Ha.

It was around 6:00 p.m. when I got back to the hotel.  I saw Sandra and she said they were planning to leave at 6:45 for “cocktails” at the little bar up the street.  O.K.  I went to my room and laid down for a few minutes before getting ready to go out again.

We went to Poplenau a Tapa’s bar just a few doors up from the hotel.  We had drinks and then went for dinner up the stairs next to the hotel to a restaurant called Columbina.  

The view was incredible and it was nearly a full moon.  

The food was good not the best meal I’d had in Valparaiso but still good.  I had conger eel, which is not what you would think.  It is a white fish and quite mild.

moon rise over the bay

Back to my room to pack up as I’m going back to Santiago for two nights before flying to Punta Arenas on Sunday.  I wanted to go back to Santiago because I’d missed a few sites.