Talk about impulsive. This morning at breakfast I was talking with a couple from Germany (Uwe & Gerti). Uwe told me they had purchased a cabin on the cruise ship, Cruseros Australis, that was going to Ushuaia for a “last minute” price of $1425.00. I was in shock. The price I was quoted was $3,000.00. They encouraged me to go to the cruise office to talk with the same woman they had. Uwe went to his room to get me her business card. I couldn’t believe that I could get this great price, but it was worth the visit to see if it might be possible.
After breakfast, I practically ran to the Comapa office. I asked for Marlene, and showed her the business card with her name on it and told her the people she sold the trip to yesterday were staying at my hotel. I wanted to know if there was any more “last minute” price cabins. She looked at me and said, “didn’t I talk with you yesterday.”
“Yes”, I said. I spoke to you yesterday about the penguin tour.”
She started typing on her computer, I’m thinking maybe $2,000.00,(because of the single supplement) I’m waiting with great anticipation and she says,
“O.k., last minute price, $1425.00.”
“Really, I’ll take it,” I said with much excitement, and handed over my credit card.
“You need to bring your suitcase here anytime after 12:30 p.m. (it was 11:30 a.m.) and before 5:00. Then you can board the ship at 6:00 p.m.” she told me.
She told me it would take a few minutes for her to get me the ticket and my receipt. I could hardly sit still I was so excited.
The goal of this journey was to get to Tierra del Fuego and Ushuaia, because Ushuaia is the southern most city on earth. However, now I was going to Cape Horn, even farther south. I’m a bit crazy but I was as happy as a kid in a candy store.
While I was waiting Gerti came in with their luggage. I told her I was going on the ship and she was also excited.
Things like this don’t just happen every day. It’s one of the great reasons to travel. I’m also lucky that I have the luxury to be spontaneous with my time and have the money to pay for it. So what if I have to work the rest of my natural life to pay off the credit card, this was a once in a lifetime opportunity and I wasn’t going to turn it down.
“One thing, I asked Marlene, can you help me call the hotel in Ushuaia and explain why I will arrive on Saturday, two days late.”
I gave her the phone number and she called. That was extra nice. The hotel told her it wasn’t a problem.
I skipped back to the hotel so I could pack and check out. When I got back to the hotel I explained to the very kind woman (I forget her name) at the desk that I was going on the boat and needed to check out. No problemo. She told me I could stay there until I needed to go to the boat.
I packed everything and she called a taxi for me so I could take my suitcase and toiletries to the ship office.
I left my backpack with my computer and camera at the hotel in a locked closet while I took care of my luggage then I was going to have lunch.
When I got back to the Comapa office they couldn't have been nicer. They took my 2 pieces of luggage, gave me the boarding pass and other necessary documents and told me to be at the ship by 6:00 p.m.
My last lunch in Punta Arenas was at La Luna. I’d heard from several people that it was one of the best restaurants here and indeed this was one of the best meals I’ve had.
Remember in Santiago the waiter at the fish restaurant told me it was crab season and they came from Punta Arenas. I had to have at least one crab meal while I was here. La Luna had a house special called Chupe Centolla (by the way centolla is crab in Spanish.
It was king crab baked in this fish shaped iron pan mixed with parmesan cheese. Oh so rich and oh so good. I ate every bite.
I’d heard about the Zona Franca where you could buy just about anything you could want for very cheap. After lunch I thought I would check it out to see if I could find another turtleneck shirt and some socks. I had several hours to kill and I was afraid I might need more clothing in case the weather got colder where we were going on the ship.
The very nice woman at Ilaia told me I could get a collectivo for 300 pesos to Zona Franca from the plaza and which number taxi (the collectivo) I should take. It was so easy. The Zona Franca was a 5 minute car ride and a 40 minute walk so I took the taxi.
What a disappointment, well I don’t know what I was expecting. I got there and it was just like an outlet mall. There were these big shops with all kinds of electronics, clothing, yeah anything you need if you live here. I tried going into a few stores but they were just too big for me. They were all the size of Costco, big turnoff.
What a disappointment, well I don’t know what I was expecting. I got there and it was just like an outlet mall. There were these big shops with all kinds of electronics, clothing, yeah anything you need if you live here. I tried going into a few stores but they were just too big for me. They were all the size of Costco, big turnoff.
I walked back to the main highway to get a collectivo back to town. However, the bus came first and I asked if he was going to “el centro” and he said he was going close, so I got on. I saw he was heading in the right direction and it was only 200 pesos.
I was glad I took the bus because I got to see some of the neighborhoods. From my observation, this was not the richest part of town nor the poorest. The houses were extremely simple but well kept. Some were better than others but you could tell people took care of their houses.
I got back to town and walked to the Plaza because I wanted to buy an alpaca scarf and a headband for my ears. The other day when I was in the plaza, I saw all these wooden kiosks filled with lots of alpaca woolens and other souvenirs for really good prices. I bought an alpaca scarf for $8.00 and the headband was $4.00. Then I saw a pair of gloves and they were $2.00. Best deal yet. I really wanted this alpaca cape but no room in the suitcase.
It was 4:30 so I walked back to the hotel to write for a bit before I needed to be at the dock. They were so nice at the hotel. She got my backpack for me and when she saw I was going to sit down asked if I wanted a cup of tea. I was a bit sad to be leaving here but also so excited about the cruise.
If you ever find yourself going to Punta Arenas you must stay at The Ilaia Hotel. http://www.ilaiapatagonia.com/
they will welcome you with open hearts and treat you kindly.
they will welcome you with open hearts and treat you kindly.
 |
| beautiful handmade things from Ilaia Hotel |
I don’t know why but I was surprised at how luxurious the ship was. My room was incredibly large for a cruise ship, a double bed with a full square window and a bathroom you could walk in. wow.
 |
| my room |
Other than to say the first night I was taken by Gerti to sit at their table and this was the table I sat at the rest of cruise I’m going to give the itinerary and show photos because that’s really what the cruise was about.
 |
| being pushed by the tugboat |
 |
| bye bye Punta Arenas |
At this table was a couple from Seattle; Jane and Bob with their friend Pierre (who was originally from Belgium) whose wife got sick so he was alone, an American mom (Helen) who lives in New Jersey and her 20 year old daughter (Julie) who has been living in Buenos Aires, Uwe and Gerti from Germany and myself.
Almost from the minute I stepped on the ship until I got off I was busy on an excursion, listening to a lecture, watching a documentary or eating. I barely had time to write but I did upload my photos everyday. Here is the itinerary for Cruceros Australis Cruise No. 161:
Day 1:
7:00 p.m.--Welcome cocktail and folklore show. Introduction of officers and expedition team. Safety instructions.
8:00 p.m.-- sailing from Punta Arenas.
8:15 p.m.-- dinner. Navigation through Strait of Magellan.
There were several electronic maps on board that were tracing our path so we could see where we were at all times.
Day 2:
 |
| what I saw from my window when I woke up |
8:00-9:00 Breakfast.
9:15--Instructions for disembarkation in Ainsworth Bay.
9:30- 11:30 excursion to and walk through island in Ainsworth Bay. Saw the calafate plant. My new favorite berry (looks just like a blueberry). I think only found in Patagonia.
 |
| coming into Ainsworth Bay |
 |
| Uwe and Gerti |
 |
| Eduardo our guide for the first landing |
 |
| Eduardo explaining the trees found on the island |
 |
| lichen, they call "old man's beard" |
 |
| this is part of the forest we walked through |
 |
| edible fruit |
 |
| berries found on the island |
 |
| berry plant |
 |
| our zodiac driver who called me "Miss California" |
 |
| view of the boat from the zodiac |
1:00 - Lunch
3:30--Instructions for disembarkation in Tuckers Islets. This was just a zodiac ride around the island where I saw more penguins.
 |
| view of the island |
 |
| swimming Magellan penguins |
 |
| we got really close even though we didn't get off the boat |
 |
| the clouds were incredible |
 |
| leaving Tucker's Islet |
 |
| glacial ice |
 |
| Add caption |
7:00 p.m.--lecture on birds of patagonia
8:00 p.m.--dinner
9:45 p.m.--documentary film “Eden at the end of the world”
10:00 p.m.--Bingo (no I didn’t go)
The cruise director told us that we might hit rough waters around 3:00 a.m. because the boat had to go out into the Pacific Ocean. Up till that point we were in more protected waters. Well I can tell you that I was woken or had to go to the bathroom, not sure which, and it was 3:03 a.m. The boat was really rocking and I had a hard time going back to sleep. I eventually did but was quite tired the next day.
Day 3:
8:00 - 9:00 a.m. Breakfast
 |
| arriving at the glacier |
9:30 a.m. -- “Discovering Tierra del Fuego” lecture. Very interesting talk about the different tribes who lived in this area. All except one woman, Cristina Calderon, aged 82 are extinct. The tribes were either killed by the white man or died from white man’s diseases. So sad. This one woman is a Yaghan and lives in Puerto Williams on Navarrino Island (which is part of Chile).
11:30 a.m.--”Glaciology” lecture (took a nap)
12:30 p.m.-- lunch (definitely eating way more than I am use to on this trip and not much exercise.)
 |
| cocktail hour |
2:30 p.m.--Instructions for disembarkation in Pia Glacier.
 |
| Pia Glacier |
3:00 - 5:00 p.m. excursion to Pia Glacier with a short hike.
 |
| This looks like Half Dome to me |
 |
| we were so lucky with the weather |
 |
| the hike to view the glacier |
6:00 p.m. beginning of navigation through Glacier Alley-- we saw the French, Italian, Dutch, Romanche and German Glaciers. All named for explorers from those countries who were in this part of the world.
 |
| glacier alley |
7:15 p.m.--”Cape Horn” briefing
8:00 p.m.--dinner
 |
| leaving glacier alley |
I did nothing after dinner but go to my room and work on the computer also because I had to be up very early for our disembarking for Cape Horn and was still tired from the bad nights sleep.
7:00 a.m. instructions for disembarkation on Cape Horn Island. (They told us they wouldn’t know if we could actually go on the island until the boat arrived. Then the expedition team would go on a zodiac to see if they could land the boats. But we needed to be ready in any case.
 |
| walking up the stairs to Cape Horn monument |
 |
| Landing at Cape Horn |
This was an incredible experience. When the boat dropped anchor I got my camera out when to the stern and sang as I videoed the island: “It’s the end of the world as we know it”. I know the song has a different meaning but the words fit.
The zodiac ride was a little rocky and it was misting. By the time I climbed the 91 steps up to the island it was slightly raining.
By the time I walked to the monument it was pouring. I did not have the right clothes for this and I was soaking wet. After taking a quick photo at the monument I walked back to the lighthouse. This is where I met the husband and wife who live on the island.
He works for the Chilean navy (I think) and also run a souvenir shop. I don’t know but isn’t that just a little funny but of course I had to buy a t-shirt and a scarf that say “Cape Horn”.
The wife told me she had been there 2 months and they would be there for one year. The sun hardly shines, mostly they get wind and rain. I would not want to live here. Oh and they have two small boys.
 |
| The Cape Horn Monument |
By the time I walked to the monument it was pouring. I did not have the right clothes for this and I was soaking wet. After taking a quick photo at the monument I walked back to the lighthouse. This is where I met the husband and wife who live on the island.
 |
| The Lighthouse |
He works for the Chilean navy (I think) and also run a souvenir shop. I don’t know but isn’t that just a little funny but of course I had to buy a t-shirt and a scarf that say “Cape Horn”.
The wife told me she had been there 2 months and they would be there for one year. The sun hardly shines, mostly they get wind and rain. I would not want to live here. Oh and they have two small boys.
Hey mom I’m playing at the end of the world and it’s my backyard!
By 8:30 a.m. I was back on the ship. I took off all my clothes and took a shower. I was afraid my pants wouldn’t dry in time to get off the ship.
9:00 - 10:00 a.m.--breakfast
10:00 a.m.--documentary “Shackleton Antarctic Adventure”. Amazing story, very sad ending.
12:00 p.m.--introduction to Chilean wines (did not go, had a nap)
1:00 p.m.-- lunch
3:00 p.m.--”Darwin in Patagonia” lecture. Extremely interesting story about how Darwin came to this part of the world.
 |
| Alejandro was our guide today |
4:15 p.m.--Instructions for disembarkation in Wulaia Bay.
 |
| view from the top of the hike |
4:30 - 6:00 p.m.--Hill hike on Navarrino Island. This was the most exercise I’d had in 3 days and it felt great. Incredible views from the top.
 |
| This is called Indian Bread and what the natives lived off of |
 |
| just incredible |
For all the excursions we had a guide who would give us information about what we were seeing. They were extremely knowledgable and helpful. At the end of all excursions (except Cape Horn) they had whiskey with glacial ice or hot chocolate.
8:00 p.m.-- farewell dinner
10:00 p.m.--champagne, raffle and auction. The raffle was for the flag that was flow throughout the trip. They auctioned the navigation chart used for the sailing to Cape Horn. I would have loved to have this chart but it was very big and not only could I not travel with it I have no place to put it in my house. Good rationalization not to bid.
Now do you see how busy I was. I needed a vacation from the vacation from the vacation.
Day 5:
7:00 a.m. Arrival at Ushuaia
8:00 a.m.-- disembark ship
No comments:
Post a Comment