Monday, March 7, 2011

Monday-February 28--Ushuaia





I knew I could sleep in today but I forgot to turn the alarm off on my phone and it played the drums at 7:15 a.m.  I tried to go back to sleep but wasn’t successful for long.
  
Today was the day to visit the Maritime Museum, located in the building that was previously the jail.  
Maritime Museum
I got myself ready and went for breakfast.  Breakfast was pretty bleak.  They did have mixed fruit that was like fruit cocktail (canned fruit) and the highlight (ha ha) was the offering of a piece of toast.  Really.  Coffee is all I really want in the morning.  I’m not sure what I want anymore for breakfast but this isn’t quenching my hunger.  I honestly can’t remember when I had a breakfast that I enjoyed.
The Maritime Museum   http://www.museomaritimo.com  was very close to the hotel, maybe 7 blocks away, an easy walk.  The sun was out but there were lots of clouds in the sky looming with rain, so I took my coat.  Actually given the weather patterns I take my coat everywhere with me.
When I arrived at the museum they were offering a tour but unfortunately it was only in Spanish.  The guide used a microphone and it was hard to get away from her loud voice.
The collection of items are housed, in what was the jail, that was closed in 1947.  It’s an interesting use of space.  On the first floor, on one side of the building, each cell contains information about the jail, the treatment of the prisoners and stories of famous prisoners.  The other side uses the cells to display information about explorers of Antarctica.  The second floor has historical information about Ushuaia, much of the information was the same I saw in the “Museum at the End of the World” the other day.  But I really enjoyed the photo of “Miss Ushuaia”.

Miss Ushuaia 1940
The museum ticket is good for 48 hours.  After a few hours I began to understand why.  There was a lot to see and digest.  I decided I would go have lunch and come back to see the art galleries in a different wing of the building.  
Ruben had recommended the restaurant Chiko’s and the two women from my hotel told me they’d eaten there and it was good.  
Chiko’s is a Chilean restaurant (in Argentina) and certainly most of the people eating here were more locals than some of the other restaurants I had eaten in.  I ordered the salmon, which was simple but good.  It was a nice meal, not incredible, but good.
I was a little concerned about the weather as the clouds were looking rather ominous but decided I would go back to the museum to see the art gallery.  I was glad I did.  They had an interesting exhibit of nautical artists on the first floor, where the paintings and other images were for sale.  Then I went upstairs where they had the permanent collection. 

original cells

In another wing of the building are more "cells" left in their original condition.  It was rather eerie to see.  The light was very dim and I took a photo from what would have been the view of a prisoner (although I'm sure the doors would have been closed).  
prisoners view

After the museum I walked around a bit thinking, “was there any part of Ushuaia I’d missed.”  I do talk to myself since there isn’t anyone else usually around.

I walked to the other end of San Martin and then down to the “plaza” overlooking the port (about 10 blocks max).  This is a small town.  


It reminded me a bit of what Aspen was in the 50’s or 60’s.  If you look up in the hills there are lots of big houses which are owned by wealthy Argentinians and other South Americans.  Ruben told me in the winter it’s a great place to ski.  
On my way back to the hotel I bought an vegetable empanada and cookies for dinner. After having a large lunch I didn’t really want a big dinner and I had to pack.  I spent some time writing. I don’t know if I’ll ever catch up on my blog.  

One bit of clarification as far as "fin del mundo" is concerned.  This is the last "city" at the end of the world.  There has been some discussion that Puerto Williams is further south, however, Puerto Williams is not considered a city it's a town (and it's part of Chile).  The Chileans and Argentinians have been arguing over Tierra del Fuego for centuries.  At one time, not so long ago, the Pope had to intervene so both countries could come to some reconciliation.  It seems as though the people who live in Tierra del Fuego weren't as concerned about the land as the "governments of both countries.  It is a very peaceful place and I was very glad I came here.

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