Day Seventy Eight-El Chalten-El Calafate

Friday-March 11-El Chalten to El Calafate, Argentina

Of course today the sun was out with very little wind.  I had a 1:00 p.m. bus ticket back to El Calafate.  However, I decided I would get up early so I could take a short 2 or 3 hour hike to the “mirador” (the lookout) of the torre and possibly see the Fitz Roy.

  

I ate a quick breakfast and packed all my bags because I had to be out of the room by 10:00 a.m. but I was able to get myself together and be on the trail by 9:30.  I knew I had to be back at the hostel by 12:15 to get to the bus station.

at the start of the trail

The trail started just down the street from the hostel.  Within the first few minutes of walking I met a nice girl from Korea.  The beginning of the trail was slightly up hill, nothing I couldn’t tackle but she was much faster than I was and left me in the dust (so to speak).  I continued at my pace and when I got to the top of the hill found the Laguna Torre sign and a great view of the town.  

a view of El Chalten

A little bit past the sign I met a retired couple from England who had been traveling for several months.  They also were walking to the mirador.  We walked and talked about our travels and our children. The husband told me he couldn’t come to America anymore because of some immigration problem he’d had many years ago.  He was disappointed because he enjoyed his visits to America and would like to visit again.  Of course, I’m always interesting to hear about the bureaucracy in my country.  

I’m curious as to how immigration or customs will deal with me.  I’m not sure what the triggers are any more but I know I’ve been out of the U.S. for three months and in a variety of countries.  I’m expecting to be questioned. 

The sky was blue and the temperature probably about 60 degrees.  I was told the hike was about 1.5 hours to the mirador to get a view of the Cerro Torre and the Fitz Roy.  I didn’t have a watch so I had to ask other people for the time.

I reached the mirador with the English couple where we met another couple who were living in America.  

beautiful view of Cerro Torre

The view was incredible with a clear view of the Cerro Torre.  Unfortunately there were many clouds blocking a good view of the Fitz Roy. But the clouds move quickly so within minutes we were able to see part of the Fitz Roy.  

Fitz Roy behind the clouds

Due to my time constraint I couldn’t stay here long, just long enough to take several photos.  I said goodbye to the two couples and started my decent back to town.  

On my return trip I met an Italian couple who were also in a hurry to get back to town because they too had a 1:00 p.m. bus back to El Calafate.  (I think I forget to mention that on Tuesday morning the first bit of business I took care of was to buy another return bus ticket from the other bus company, Cal-Tur (with the new Mercedes bus).  It cost me an additional $20.00 but worth the comfort of knowing I would get back to El Calafate safely.)

I had a nice walk with them down the hill.  They asked me if I’d seen the sculptures made from recycled materials.  

“No, I hadn’t”, I told them.

Mauricio

They took me on the street where they were.  Mauricio pointed out the “postman” sculpture because he is a postman in Italy.  This photo is dedicated to him.  All the sculptures were cool.  A better thing to do with the metal and other parts of the sculpture rather than throwing them in the dump.

guitarist with Fitz Roy in the background

It was close to 12:30 when we got to the main street.  We exchanged e-mails and went are respective ways to our hostels.

When I returned to the hostel I saw the Cal-Tur bus across the street.  Carolina (the girl at the reception) thought I would be able to get on the bus here rather than having to go to the bus terminal.  As I was getting my things together the bus started to leave.  Another guy in the hostel was also taking the bus and he went outside and stopped the bus so we could get on.  That was nice.

We got on the bus but still had to go to the terminal and wait for other passengers.  Sitting next to the Cal-Tur bus in the terminal was a much newer Chalten Travel bus.  Oy, what to do.  

One thing I have learned on this trip is when I make a decision I just have to live with it, good or bad.

The Fitz Roy

While waiting at the terminal I got off the bus and walked 100 feet to see an incredible view of the Fitz Roy.  When the sky is clear the Fitz Roy is easily seen from standing on the main street.

Again I was laughing at myself for thinking it was in a completely different direction.  

The bus ride was very comfortable with an incredible view of the mountains and the lake given that it was such a gorgeous day.  Everyone was taking photos from the bus.

It took a little less than 3 hours to get back to El Calafate and yes there was a bathroom on the bus and yes I did use it.

We arrived at the bus station and I needed to walk to the El Calafate Hostel.  It wasn’t too far but I had to lug my stuff down a set of 30 stairs.  O.k. a backpack would have been easier.

Once I got down the stairs it was another 6 blocks to the hostel.

The person at the reception at this hostel wasn’t nearly as nice as at the Patagonia Hostel in El Chalten.  It was only for one night I thought.  

He gave me the key and I walked to the room which was at the end of the hall.  The room was not nearly as nice or clean either.

I took a shower and went into to town.  Now I could shop and I wanted to buy some of new favorite jam, Calafate.   The main street was filled with “tourist” shops that sell things made from the Calafate berrry.  I visited several stores to price compare and mostly they had the same items and the same price.  3 jars of dulce de calafate for 60 pesos.  I bought 3 jars.  I’m not sure I will share with anyone.  I also bought a few small bottles of calafate liqor.  

I wanted a snack and decided to go back to the restaurant I’d been to, Viva la Pepa, before I went to El Chalten.  The girls were so nice and helpful and they had a nice menu.  It wasn’t dinner time so I decided I would have some ice cream.  I thought I was ordering a scoop of ice cream and this is what I got.  OMG.  The  swirled sculpture on top of the ice cream was made from sugar.

my dinner

It was delicious and I ate the entire thing (not the entire sculpture).  That was all I ate for the rest of the night.

Walking back to the hostel I found another shop on a side street with Calafate products made at a near by estancia (ranch).  The sales girl offered sample tastings of licors made from all kinds of fruits, not just the calafate berry.  I had a few samples and decided I liked the calafate the best.  I also bought a calafate sauce that can be used over ice cream or in cooking a sauce.

I finally made it back to the hostel and thought I would get on the internet, which required going to the lobby, and maybe meet some people.  Unfortunately there weren't any people hanging out in the lobby.   A little sad.  As I said this hostel wasn’t nearly as friendly as the last.

The lobby was more like a bar with two large flat screens showing the news of the earthquake in Japan without sound and blaring rock music, a style I didn’t care for.  I tried to write but was too distracted by the noise so I went back to my room.

I was sad to be leaving the beauty and nature of Patagonia.  Back to a big city in the morning.