Wednesday--January 19--Jewish Tour--Istanbul

Wednesday--January 19--Istanbul-Jewish tour

I had made an arrangement to go on the “Jewish” tour, which is to visit several of the synagogues.  You must arrange this before coming to Istanbul because there is high security since the bombing of Neve Shalom one of the synagogues in 2003.  

I got up at 7:30 a.m and the cold had arrived.  I popped two sudafed and went on my way.  I went down for breakfast.  They had a buffet of things that didn’t really interest me.  I had a slice of bread with a piece of cheese and some yogurt.

I was picked up at 8:30 by Alp and the driver was Koray, the same man who picked me up from the airport.  

synagogue is on right in the back

The first synagogue we went to was the Ashkenazi synagogue, called Ashkenazi synagogue.  The other synagogues are all Sephadic.  The temple is located on a very narrow street nestled in between houses and shops in the Galata area of Istanbul.  It is an active temple and the only Ashkenazi one. 

The security was tight and Alp told me that you must arrive at the scheduled time or they won’t let you in.  We arrived at 9:00 and they were waiting for us.  First Alp had to show a piece of paper stating that he had gotten permission for me to visit and then I had to show my passport.  They had two extremely heavy metal doors you had to go through then had to walk through a metal detector before entering.  

bema at Ashkenazi Temple

It was beautiful inside, although very old style.  The seats were benches not chairs for the congregants.   

bench seating at Ashkenazi Temple

The temple is Orthodox and thus has an upstairs seating for the women.  

They had many torahs and the man from the temple told me they came from Austria.  This temple was founded in the 1900’s by jews who came from Austria.  
















Our guide from the temple told us to go visit the library which was several floors down (the temple consist of 6 floors).  They had many old prayer books, not in very good condition and I’m sure haven’t been touched for years.  

As we were leaving they asked me for a donation.  I didn’t really know what to give.

The next synagogue we went to was Neve Shalom also in the same neighborhood.  

bema of Neve Shalom

This is the largest and most important synagogue in Istanbul and has been bombed twice, the first in 1986 and the second in 2003.  The most interesting thing I learned was that Jews have lived in Istanbul since they were expelled from Spain in 1492.  The Sultan at the time sent his ships to bring the Jews to Istanbul and they have lived here ever since.  There aren’t that many left today, maybe 15,000. 

inside the Neve Shalom synagogue

Neve Shalom is also beautiful inside. The bottom floor where we entered (also through heavy metal doors and through metal detector) was all set up for a celebration, maybe a wedding because all the chairs had white slip covers and the tables had white table clothes.  But who knows.  They took my passport and held onto it until we were finished.

This temple has wood chairs for congregants to sit on, also an upstairs for women and seems more modern than the Ashkenazi temple (it has been redone over the years because of the bombings).  I was shown a bullet hole in a chair and one near the bema from the last bombing.  

They have a little museum with many mezuzahs, keys and small prayer books in a case.  I asked what the keys were for and was told, "to open the torahs."
That's when I learned that torah covers for Sephardic torahs are more like a case, different from the Ashkenazi ones which are like slip covers, and need a key to be opened.

It was here that I explained to our temple guide and Alp about the different levels of the Jewish religion; reform, conservative, orthodox and Hassidic.  The temple guide was interested in the reform and conservative movements, especially since men and woman could sit together. He thought that was a good idea.  I also told them that my great grandfather had been a reform rabbi in the early 1900’s.

As we were leaving the temple they also asked for a donation.

The next synagogue we visited was Ahrida, the oldest temple in Istanbul, also Sephardic, and located in the “original” Jewish neighborhood Balat.  

Alp warned me that the woman who was in charge of this temple was not very pleasant.  He said this was because she had never married and was still a virgin.  I had to laugh.  I also wasn’t allowed to take any photos inside.  But they did have a postcard with photos that I could buy for 5 Turkish Lira.  

This temple reminded me of the sephardic temple in Tzfat, Israel, in that the bema is in the center of the room instead of at one end.   

Ahrida Synagogue is known foremost by its boat-shaped tevah (reading platform).[1] Ahrida Synagogue is also the only synagogue in Istanbul at which Sabbatai Zevi, founder of the Jewish Sabbatean movement, prayed.[2]     

Alp said we would go for a tea and rest a bit.  As we walked to a restaurant we found these happy Turks taking their tea break.  I find the Turks drink lots of tea.  

tea guys

They just stand in the street and hold this very small glass cup filled with tea.  Alp explained that for sometime this neighborhood was inhabited by gypsies and drug people but is now the “up and coming” neighborhood to live in.  A lot of renovation has been going on since the 1990’s.  

We went to a restaurant and I had what I thought looked like noodle kugel but was told it was phyllo dough with cheese.  Whatever it was, it was delicious.  After we ate, Alp gave me a cookie that was filled with pistachio nuts.  Yummy.  Lots of nuts in this country, myself included.

Onto the last synagogue, Etz Ahayim, in a town called Ortokoy. 


Alp showed the same papers he had shown at the other three synagogues however there was much discussion here and the end result was that we were not allowed to enter.  Alp explained that the man said they changed the rules a few days ago and the papers he had were no longer valid.  Alp even called the chief rabbinate’s office but to no avail we were not allowed in. Disappointing but better it was the last one of the day.

The sun was out on this beautiful day and the town of Ortakoy is located on the Bosphorus River.  There are many open air cafes along the water and people just sitting on benches enjoying the nice winter weather.  

jelly fish

When I looked into the river I saw an incredible number of jelly fish.

Ortokoy on the Bosphorus

It’s nice to see people just sitting able to pass the time watching the water and not seeming to worry about anything.  










Instead of going into the temple Alp took me into this mosk.  I couldn’t believe I could take photos inside but Alp said it was o.k.

inside the mosk

  

Alp said he would take me to Sultanahmet, the area where many of the historic sites are located; Topkopi Palace, Hag Sophia,  The Blue Mosque, etc. so I could visit those sites by myself.

However, first he took me to his office and introduced me to a man that runs a tile company and offers “cultural” tours. I think they are partners.   They offer ceramic classes, cooking classes, trips to dance performances, etc.  This man was trying to get me to buy some of his tiles but I told him I was traveling for a long time and that I wasn’t buying anything.  That got him off my back fairly quickly.  They were nice and said if I had any trouble I could come to their office anytime.  Alp then walked me over to the Topkopi Palace was and showed me how to take the tram back to Taksim Square.  Actually I would need to take the tram to Kabatas and then a funicular to Taksim Square.

I asked Alp if I was to pay him for the tour and he said no I could pay at the hotel but I could tip him if I was happy with my tour.  Not knowing what was appropriate I gave him 10% of the tour fee.  

Then I went to Topkopi Palace and paid my 20 Turkish Lira entrance fee.  An amazing place.  You can click here to read more about it if you want. http://www.greatistanbul.com/topkapi_palace.htm.

I think what interests me the most is the enormous size of these buildings.  Also the exhibit halls with the Sultans treasures.  The jewels were amazing.  An 89 carat diamond that supposedly was found in a dump thought to be glass but later realized to be this incredible diamond.  Go figure.  

After the exhibit halls I went to the Harem quarters, where you need to pay an additional fee of  15 TL.  This area was also very interesting.

inside the harem quarter

The Harem section of the Topkapi Palace is made up of about 400 rooms scattered around small inner courts. Throughout the history of the palace, the Harem quarters under-went alterations continuously. It was the private quarters of the Sultan’s residence where his mother, brothers and sisters, wives, children and other members of the family, as well as the servants and eunuchs lived. Throughout the centuries, many have been told about these private quarters of the palace, entrance to which was strictly prohibited to outsiders. 

I wouldn’t have wanted to be a woman during these times.  I’d probably be killed for traveling by myself.

view of Galata Tower from the outside of the Harem quarter

Outside of the Harem quarter I saw this bride having her wedding photos being taken.  I indulged too.  Her dress had incredible beading detail and I love the head piece.  

After a few hours at the Palace, I was ready to return to the hotel.  It was easy to find and get on the tram.  You need to find the Jetson machine and buy a token, which is 1.75 TL (cheap).  Finding the funicular was a bit trickier but as I got off the tram there was a woman also looking for the funicular and she helped me.  I had to buy another token for the funicular.  

I find a lot of people speak English here and are very helpful.

When I got off the funicular I was at Taksim Square, which is just a few blocks from my hotel.

I walked back to the hotel and relaxed.

I went downstairs to have a tea and there were two girls from Belgium who are here for three months doing an internship for midwifery.  They were making dinner and offered me some of their macaroni and cheese.  That was nice.  Also, there is a woman from Mexico city, Maria who is staying here for maybe a month.  She is trying to get a job teaching Spanish because she would like to stay here for a while.  The hotel is actually filled with just woman at the time.  

I was very tired and not feeling so good so I went upstairs.